Well it's been about 3 weeks since I arrived back home and life has pretty much returned to normal. I apologize for not writing a final blog entry sooner but I needed some time off from anything mountain related. So here it is:
After three weeks of reflection, I have been able to look back on my trip and better appreciate what I accomplished and experienced during the past two months. This was without a doubt an epic adventure that tested me in so many different waysand proved a lot to me about myself and what I am capable of. There are too many challenges to list that Everest throws at you, but it is without a doubt one of the most hostile environments that you can find on Earth. The altitude is debilitating, the cold is mind-numbing, the wind almost indescribable, the mental stress exhausting- but by learning to cope and eventually thrive with all of the challenges presented to me, my dream of standing on top of the world became reality. As some of you know from the blogs of other team members and dispatches from Adventure Peaks, many on the team had a rough go of it on summit day. It was bittersweet making it to the top because many of those people I had forged relationships with over the previous two months fell short of their goals. It certainly wasn't for a lack of effort, strength, or determination but rather difficulties that made turning around the only smart option. When you make a decision at 8000 meters, you are almost always taking your life into another level of risk. Luckily everyone made it off the mountain alive and their stories can be found on their blog pages and are well worth your time. In that environment, your relationships are unique because of your circumstances. Everyone there has a common goal and on a mountain like Everest there is danger everywhere. From altitude sickness to crevasses to falls and absolute exhaustion, having people around that you can trust is one of your biggest allies. I think that there were quite a few guys who would have gone out of their way to help a teammate, or anyone for that matter, in need. Our team was also a very strong team with some really skilled climbers and guys in phenomenal physical condition. But as with any mountain, over the course of those punishing 2 months strong men were turned weak. Healthy, lively lungs, exasperated. It seemed like my own body was failing me in every way possible. Despite the outcome or the summit success, most of the team was great for the 2 month stay on the mountain and really made it easier to live in such harsh conditions for such a long period of time.
At any rate, my summit day started at 10pm on May 22nd Nepal Time from camp at 8300m or about 27,300ft. At this altitude, the tent is precariously perched on a small platform of rocks gathered and shaped into a not-so-level square to help stop the tent from rolling down the mountain. Getting in and out of the tent was a huge effort and I didn't do much other than shiver and try to close my eyes, knowing I wasn't going to get any real sleep, but thinking it might make the time pass quicker. I was shivering uncontrollably and although the winds weren't too bad at that moment, the temperature was well into the negatives, probably approaching the -50 mark before windchill was factored in. The hours waiting in that tent were strange to say the least. Here I was in the most inhospitable place on Earth, voluntarily, thinking about what my friends an family were doing at that exact moment back home in NY. Thinking about how they had no idea how cold I was, how hungry and sleep-deprived I was, and how I was walking that very fine line about to start the most dangerous part of the climb. When the time finally came to set the gears in motion, it took 20 minutes just to get my equipment on and my oxygen flowing before actually setting off for the summit. I was one of the last ones to start mostly due to the lethargy the altitude had me feeling, but I slowly picked up my pace as my body warmed up and started to pass other climbers until only two of my teammates, Brandon and Pete, were in front of me. To quickly touch on the lethargic feeling that altitude has on climbers, the best way I can think to describe it is that it's like being in a warm bed when it's really cold because you left your window open but the last thing you want to do is get out of your bed to close the window, which would ultimately make the room warmer, solving your problem. When you're lying in your sleeping bag and you know your dehydrated and need to eat something but you choose to stay in your sleeping bag rather than proactively attack your problems and melt some snow for water or heat a boil-in-a-bag meal, you're really taking a risk but you just can't make yourself do it. Even knowing how dangerous being dehydrated at altitude is, or knowing how you've already depleted all of your glycogen stores and your body fat% is down to nothing after 7 weeks on the mountain. Hope that gives a little better of an idea...
The weather couldn't have been much better with no cloud cover and very little wind. The darkness of that night was like nothing I'd ever seen, making the stars from that altitude absolutely amazing. Off in the far distance in Nepal there were lightning storms that would send fantastic flashes through the clouds that were down in the jungles. Everything was deadly quiet, like the quiet you experience during a heavy, steady snow and you step outside your door and every sound just ceases. The only thing I could hear was my own breathing, labored and frantic. It was a very surreal experience and felt like it could have all been a dream. Slowly plodding along the Northeast Ridge, I could see the headlamps of other climbers farther up the route bobbing in the dark.
Not long after moving on the ridge did I see my first dead body, which I knew was somewhere close by but actually coming up on it and seeing a pair of neon green boots sticking out of the small cave was something I couldn't have prepared myself for. "Green Boots" as he's known to the climbers of Everest, crawled into that cave back in 1996 and never got back up. His body is curled up like he could be lying in a bed, and his down jacket still has loft to it. Two oxygen cylinders lie next to him and his crampons are still attached to his boots. I can't really describe the feeling but it put things into perspective- I'm in a place where there is a fine line between living and dying. This isn't a place for humans and if you aren't quick and mistake-free during your time in the "Death Zone" (above 26,000ft) you are pushing your luck. You're on borrowed time, and that's something you have to keep in the back of your mind. You read stories about people dying in the mountains all the time. I'm not sure there is a book on mountaineering that doesn't touch on death and tragedy. The weird part was that even as a climber I never thought twice about it. I'm sure some of that had to do with my age, being 20 years old and invincible to anything the world could throw at me. I'd had my share of close calls in South America and in the previous weeks on Everest, but this made it real to me. Standing overtop a frozen body brought flooded me with different emotions but most importantly it reaffirmed my determination to stay focused and make sure I wasn't going to have the same fate. After stopping for a minute or two at that cave and I continued onward and it wasn't long before meeting the first technical challenge of summit day, the first step. There are three steps which are basically nearly vertical sections of rock that you have to ascend to complete the climb. They are what make the ascent from the North side of Everest so difficult. The combination of the extreme altitude, exhaustion and lack of concentration makes these steps difficult obstacles. The exposure on both sides of the ridge make them utterly terrifying and if someone says they aren't scared while looking down over 10,000 feet of mountain to fall off of, they're lying. The first step did not have any ladders and I don't really have any recollection about climbing it and because it was still dark it was hard to really have a good idea of what exactly you were climbing. I was in a zone and I think that's the main reason I don't remember it. On the way back down I descended the first step in daylight and was surprised at how steep it was, but because you can only see as far as your headlamp shines at night, sections like that often seem a lot smaller because you can't see that whole picture.
Shortly after ascending the first step there was a very exposed traverse to the foot of the second step which is fixed with two ladders to help you climb the vertical rock. It was starting to get a little lighter out now that it was closing in on 3am but still dark enough that you could only make out the outlines of the rock overhead. I was behind Pete and watched and waited for him to ascend before it was my turn. The first ladder is shorter than the second and is suspended in the air by rope tied off to pitons (basically metal anchors designed to fit into small spaces) hammered into cracks in the rock. When I put my first foot up onto the ladder, it started to swing out due to the uneven pressure. Once my second foot made it onto the lower rung, it steadied out a bit, but my legs were shaking violently in an uncontrollable response from my body. I made slow and steady work to the next outcropping of rock and now it was time for the second ladder to the top of the second step which was maybe a 20 ft ladder again hanging from ropes. Enough time had passed by that it was now it was light enough that I could see off the right side of the ridge. If you fell at that point you would have taken what is known as "The Grand Tour" which isn't so grand, because it involves the 10,000 foot fall down the mountain. It was extremely exposed and when I stepped on that ladder my legs continued shaking, this time so much that I had trouble even placing my feet. My whole body froze up and the strange part about it was I was desperately trying to keep moving but my body wasn't responding to my demands. It might have been 10 minutes before I got to the top of that ladder. Even when you got to the top of that ladder the exposed climbing wasn't over. You climb out onto a small flat spot in the rock and from there you can see just how far you're going if you slip. My heart was pounding out of my chest when I finally got to the top of the second step and I don't know if I've ever experienced an adrenaline rush like that in my life. I wish I had taken pictures but I was trying to stay focused on the task at hand and the process of taking out a camera for one photo at that altitude is a long one, not to mention the risk of frostbite if you have to remove a glove. The second step is one of those moments where being exposed to the chance of death makes you feel so alive. It's hard to explain but also an addictive part of climbing.
On the way to the third step the sun started to rise over the horizon. Without a doubt the most incredible sunrise I've ever seen. Looking down from the mountain as far as the eye could see it was still dark, but at this altitude I was in daylight. Approaching the third step I was trailing behind Pete and I swapped an oxygen cylinder before the final push. It looked so close from there, if at sea level I would guess 15-20 minutes but here at just under 29,000ft it took 3 full hours. At the bottom of the third step I came across another body. This climber was in a very similar position to "Green Boots", curled up like he laid down to take a nap. His hand was exposed and his flesh looked the same as if he was still alive but he had probably been there for a couple years. The fixed line to get up the third step was even attached to the harness that was still on his body. Again there was that realization of the situation I was in and what can happen no matter your skill or fitness level. Mountains don't discriminate. I really started to push myself hard here knowing, or at least thinking I was so close. I must have been out of breath for close to 2 continuous hours but I just couldn't force myself to slow down. I say slow down like I was moving fast but in reality I was taking a step every 10 breaths or so. The overall exhaustion and fatigue at this point is too hard to describe. The only way to know is to experience it. There was quite a bit of climbing on windswept rock that had no snow on it, right below the final summit ridge. Climbing on rock like this with crampons is no easy task as the crampons tend to slip very easily on the rock. Again the climbing became completely exposed and it was a long way down. Staying focused on my next step and trying to keep fear from dictating my actions, I reached the final summit ridge. Reaching the final summit ridge was very exciting but I then saw the actual summit still another 100 yards off which was about another 30-40 minutes. It was a weird feeling knowing that very soon I'd be standing on top of the world barring some horrible accident. Each step was a monumental effort and with each step I was realizing how much closer to reaching my dream I was. On the final 50ft our group leader Stu and teammate Brendon were coming down from the Summit. I got some high fives although I don't think I could muster any words at that point. The final steps to the top were the most relieving steps I have ever taken and I sat right down on the highest point on Earth. Wow. The view is absolutely incredible and the skies were perfectly clear. All of the hard work I put into this had finally paid off and I was on top of the world. I sat up there for a good 15 minutes soaking it all in. I let my mind relax and wander. I was lucky to be up there when only 3 or so others were so that was really nice. The fixed ropes don't run to the very top so you have to unclip from the lines to actually stand on top of the world. This means you have to be very careful where you are stepping because if you slip there is nothing to stop you from falling thousands of feet. Prayer flags are staked into the ice all over and I tried very hard not to trip on any of those and decided sitting would be the safest option. I took some pictures and video and waited until Pete and his good friend Matt reached the top together. We congratulated each other and then I started to head down knowing that this was only going to be a success if I got back down safely.
It's easy to see why people think going down is easier than going up but that's not necessarily true. Mentally you have to be on top of things to avoid making a mistake or losing concentration. Physically your legs and entire body are so exhausted from the climb up that controlling your foot placement on the way down can be tricky. Instead of lifting your feet when you take steps I often dragged mine and caught my crampons on the side of my boots which are torn to shreds as a result. It's very easy to trip yourself up and I did that all too often. On the way back down the Northeast ridge I came across three more bodies. One person had fallen near the second step and lay about 15ft below. The other two had died along the route and one had died face up which was for me the most unsettling one. The other bodies were just that, bodies. This man became a person when I saw his face, almost completely preserved, eyes and mouth open with a pained grimace. I stopped near him for a good 3-4 minutes just thinking about how this man died and why, what it must feel like to not be able to move another step, collapse and know you're going to slowly die there. Wanting to think I would never let that happen to myself, deep down knowing I wouldn't be able to do anything about it had it been me in that situation. The encounters with the bodies was one of the parts of this trip that I will never forget. On the way back down I could now see what I had climbed on the way up and the 1st and 2nd step were much more impressive in the daylight. I carefully down climbed both and in about 3 1/2 hours from the summit I was back at camp at 27,000ft. I still had one full oxygen cylinder from my original 3 and I crawled into my tent to grab some things I had left before heading farther down the mountain. I put my head down and immediately fell asleep without my oxygen mask on and woke up an hour and a half later wondering how that happened. I knew I had to get myself moving again or the lethargy would consume me and I wouldn't be going anywhere, and the last thing I needed was to be stuck at 28,000 feet in such bad physical and mental condition. With a monumental effort, I gathered my gear and packed up my pack and then started heading to the next camp down which was at about 25,500ft.
At this point I knew I was going to try to descend all the way to Advanced Base Camp where I would get a decent good meal and sleep comfortably. At Camp 2 I passed a few teammates who had descended earlier in the day and asked if anyone wanted to continue down with me but nobody was up for it so I kept on going. I don't know how I was able to keep moving but it must have been the thought of eating something real instead of a boil in the bag meal, being somewhat warm, not being caught in 100 mph wind gusts or maybe just the relative safety of Advanced Base Camp. At the top of the North Col I thought I might not make it all the way back to ABC,I was only 2 hours away if I maintained a good pace but I was in uncharted waters with regards to pushing my body. Most likely due to my stubbornness I made the decision to go for it. I slid down on my butt wherever I could wrapping the fixed lines around my arm to use as a brake. For the last time I crossed the ladders covering the crevasses and finally reached the bottom of the North Col and started to walk across the glacier that leads to ABC. I knew I wasn't completely in the clear just yet, but being so close I couldn't help but start to feel like I had really done it. When the glacier ends you start walking on a crude rock covered path and I didn't have the energy to even take my crampons off so I just walked over the rocks with them on. That in itself is incredibly stupid, but speaks volumes as to how exhausted I really was at that point I was doing pretty good until I caught the front points under a rock and took a nasty head first spill. It took a few minutes to gather myself and get moving again and I still left my crampons on for the last 15 minutes. I was running on less than fumes, and I think I had been running on pure adrenaline for about 24 hours at the point, which is physically impossible but it sure felt that way. Coming into camp was such a relief and when our mess tent came into view I was the happiest person on the mountain, and at that moment the world. I walked into the door of the mess tent and literally collapsed while my teammates Heather and Josh had to help me take off all of my gear and get me some food. A few other members of the team, Andrew and Ian got back soon after I did and we ate some decent food before passing out. The next day the rest of the team made it back down- alive but not unscathed. The following day we descended to Base Camp to get ready for our drive back to Nepal.
This was such a great experience and I wouldn't trade it for a thing. I got to meet a bunch of great people, push myself beyond limits I didn't think possible, and ultimately stand on top of the world. I'd like to thank everyone for all their support. It was really awesome to know that so many people were rooting for me and served as great motivation during those times when every cell in my body was telling me to turn around. I encourage people who have a dream or a goal to go out and pursue it, as wild as it may seem. It doesn't have to be climbing Mt. Everest but maybe it's a completing a 5k or a triathlon or even getting out and staying active with your kids, you just need to take the first step. If I can inspire just one person to go out and find their own Mt. Everest, that would make my sense of accomplishment feel all the better..
I'm a little burned out from mountains right now and although I told myself I would never step on a mountain again throughout the whole trip, I am already getting that old familiar itch. If the right opportunity presents itself I would certainly consider another 8000m peak. In the mean time I am really enjoying being back home and breathing the thick air at sea level. Again, to all my teammates and people at home who followed along with my adventure, thank you all so much!
Sincerely,
Max
Tuesday, March 11, 2014
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Max Summitted Everest
HI All, Walid here...
I don't have much to say, but its all good...
MAX SUMMITTED EVEREST AND IS SAFE!!!!!!!!!
He is at ABC resting and is expected to be in Kathmandu around the 30th and home shortly afterwards.
I think that we can all agree that he and his story are an inspiration to us all and we are very proud of his accomplishment. Carpe Diem.
Not much more for me to do or add, just ask Max when he gets home, he knows more than I do now.
Thanks for tuning in, Walid
Onthe way down...
It seems from the reports (see below) that Max made it and is on his way down. My God, what an experience... Once I know for sure that Max stood on top I will post, I hope to hear from him today or tomorrow.
23rd May - 11.00 am GM
The following is all unconfirmed but likely to be correct (where names have not been mentioned that is because we haven't got that information). Please note we are dealing with communications in an extreme environment and where only limited information can be sent whilst protecting fingers etc)
Report by Heather at ABC
Josh, Andrew, and Max are on their way down to ABC now. We're expecting Max around 6pm and are expecting Josh and Andrew (and Keith?)in the next 15 - 20 minutes or so.
Mark, Ian, (?) Pete and Simon are at 7800m with Matt Dickinson. I'm not sure if Matt Snook is there or not... Keith is either at 7800 or on his way down to ABC with Josh.
We've just had some broken communication with Stu - unfortunately the radios between C3 and ABC give broken communication so we could only hear bits and pieces of the conversation. Things are not great in C3 and they have decided to stay the night there - this includes Stu, Nigel, Brendan, Steven +1 -- . There are 8 sherpas at C3 to assist Stu to assist everyone down tomorrow. The weather up there right now looks terrible and Matt Dickinson confirmed that conditions were extremely challenging. Having said that, the forecast for tomorrow looks good so hopefully the gusts will die down over the next few hours.
Sorry that I don't have more accurate news at this stage...
I'll definitely let you know if there are any developments. I'm not sure if Stu's phone works up at C3 but you may want to confirm this info with him - as I said, everything we get down here is really broken up and unclear.
Report by Heather at ABC
(please note camps are put in sheltered areas against the wind, so this unfortunately can hinder communication, Dave Pritt)
23rd May - 11.00 am GM
The following is all unconfirmed but likely to be correct (where names have not been mentioned that is because we haven't got that information). Please note we are dealing with communications in an extreme environment and where only limited information can be sent whilst protecting fingers etc)
Report by Heather at ABC
Josh, Andrew, and Max are on their way down to ABC now. We're expecting Max around 6pm and are expecting Josh and Andrew (and Keith?)in the next 15 - 20 minutes or so.
Mark, Ian, (?) Pete and Simon are at 7800m with Matt Dickinson. I'm not sure if Matt Snook is there or not... Keith is either at 7800 or on his way down to ABC with Josh.
We've just had some broken communication with Stu - unfortunately the radios between C3 and ABC give broken communication so we could only hear bits and pieces of the conversation. Things are not great in C3 and they have decided to stay the night there - this includes Stu, Nigel, Brendan, Steven +1 -- . There are 8 sherpas at C3 to assist Stu to assist everyone down tomorrow. The weather up there right now looks terrible and Matt Dickinson confirmed that conditions were extremely challenging. Having said that, the forecast for tomorrow looks good so hopefully the gusts will die down over the next few hours.
Sorry that I don't have more accurate news at this stage...
I'll definitely let you know if there are any developments. I'm not sure if Stu's phone works up at C3 but you may want to confirm this info with him - as I said, everything we get down here is really broken up and unclear.
Report by Heather at ABC
(please note camps are put in sheltered areas against the wind, so this unfortunately can hinder communication, Dave Pritt)
Summit
Hi All, Walid here. It seems from the Adventure Peaks post below that Max summitted and is on his way down. We do not have confirmation of anything at the moment, but I think that he did it...
23rd May - 08.35pm GM No news for definate in the last few hours, we are still waiting for Stu to give an update. It is understood however (not confirmed) that a number of team members turned round between 8600-8700m. All these are without doubt below the first step and probably in the high camp at 8300m. Geordie was the last person who may have made the summit before the turn around time. We await news. Dave Pritt
02.50pm GMT Matt Snook & Peter Sunnucks will be next, they are about 20minutes from Summit (stu is making his way down and will gradually report on each member). Also on summit Mingma Sherpa, Dorjee Khatri, Phurba Ridar Sherpa. Simon Price turned round and we believe he is at high camp (unconfirmed).
23rd May - 02.35pm GMT Stu telephoned from the summit, he is on the top with Brendan and their Sherpas! Max is very close behind and should be on top within the next 5minutes. Congratulations!
23rd May - 08.35pm GM No news for definate in the last few hours, we are still waiting for Stu to give an update. It is understood however (not confirmed) that a number of team members turned round between 8600-8700m. All these are without doubt below the first step and probably in the high camp at 8300m. Geordie was the last person who may have made the summit before the turn around time. We await news. Dave Pritt
02.50pm GMT Matt Snook & Peter Sunnucks will be next, they are about 20minutes from Summit (stu is making his way down and will gradually report on each member). Also on summit Mingma Sherpa, Dorjee Khatri, Phurba Ridar Sherpa. Simon Price turned round and we believe he is at high camp (unconfirmed).
23rd May - 02.35pm GMT Stu telephoned from the summit, he is on the top with Brendan and their Sherpas! Max is very close behind and should be on top within the next 5minutes. Congratulations!
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Summit Day
Hi All, Walid here. Here is a brief description of Max's upcoming summit day which starts at about 1pm EST.
He is now at 8200M, roughly, sleeping in an uncomfortable tent at about -40 degrees. The wind is probably blowing and the team mates are hard at work trying to melt water for their bottles, hydrate themselves and eat some food. They may or may not be eating anything substantial but will surely be living off GU, Cliff bars and the like.
At about 10pm their time they will do their best to have a last bite, drink and fill their water bottles before leaving for the summit. Max will be wearing a full down suit, huge boots with integrated gators, and full underlayer thermals. In his pack he will have 3 oxygen bottles, some food and an extra pair of gloves. He will most likely store his water, camera and radio inside his down suit near his skin to keep the batteries from freezing.
As they depart the tent they may or may not have moon light, but it will most likely be pitch dark. The climb goes from the tents upwards and to the right where, after several hundred meters, they will clip into the fixed line that will lead them upwards. Every year this line is fixed newly, but the old remains so it has become a spider's web of lines and it is important that the climbers find the new line, as that is the strongest. For 4 or 5 hours they will climb up the North Ridge towards the Northeast Ridge. The climbing is fairly steep and flucuates between ice and snow. They will have to take extra precaution to place their cramponed feet gingerly on the rocks, as the points can slip because Everest is made up of down sloping shale. As they climb upwards in the dark, their feet lit up by their headlamps, they will have little to focus on but forward movement and breathing. They will also be driven by the crazy adrenaline rush of climbing Everest, which is something indescribable.
The final portion of the climb is the Northeast Ridge, which, once they reach it, will lead them all the way to the summit. They really can't get lost as their is a 10k foot drop on one side and a 9k foot drop on the other. The climb along the ridge is less steep and more of a long traverse, but it is defended by three steps, or small cliffs. You can see some in the photos below. The climb to the first step is a very straight forward and, if all goes to plan, they should be there at about daylight. It will be hard for the climbers to get used to rock climbing at that altitude with big boots, cumbersome gloves and decreased visibility due to the oxygen masks. Their should be no problem in over coming this step, which is about 40 feet tall, though the slowed pace and the use of their hands may result getting cold and out of breath. It is at this point that they will also most likely have to change oxygen bottles, as the first may have run out. They will know within minutes when the flow is not strong and will scamper to get the next one attached. This is a scary manuever, as you leave yoruself for some short time just breathing the ambient air, which is very thin. (About 27% of the pressure, therefore the oxygen, of sea level)
Once they have reached the top of the first step there is a long and straight forward traverse to the second step, which is the tallest and hardest of the three. The step in total is 150 feet but is broken by a snowy ledge half way up. The first half can be climbed with crampons, hands and ice axes, but the second part has a ladder. The history of the ladder is very interesting. A Chinese team in the 60s liked this route but thought the second step to be too hard so they carried up a ladder and used it on the hardest part. The original ladder has since been replaced, but every person to climb the ridge now uses this artificial aide.
I have never been above the second step, but I hear that if you make it that far, barring anything out of your control (like an accident to a team mate, like in my case) you should reach the summit.
Once Max is on the summit, he should not linger. Take some photos, yell a cry of victory, regain your humility and descend. This is not a place for humans and they must remember that, they have to get down while they are still hydrated, warm and have oxygen.
I hope that Max summits prior to midday so that he has the stregnth and time to descend to 7800M, where he is relatively out of danger. If he needs another night at high camp it is not ideal but not the end of the world either.
This is, without a doubt, the biggest day of Max's life and let's all hope for his safety, success and quick return.
View out of High Camp Tent
View of summit from High Camp
Ropes going up the North Ridge
Northeast Ridge
First Step
Traverse to Second Step
Second Step
View of Northeast Ridge After Skies Cleared
He is now at 8200M, roughly, sleeping in an uncomfortable tent at about -40 degrees. The wind is probably blowing and the team mates are hard at work trying to melt water for their bottles, hydrate themselves and eat some food. They may or may not be eating anything substantial but will surely be living off GU, Cliff bars and the like.
At about 10pm their time they will do their best to have a last bite, drink and fill their water bottles before leaving for the summit. Max will be wearing a full down suit, huge boots with integrated gators, and full underlayer thermals. In his pack he will have 3 oxygen bottles, some food and an extra pair of gloves. He will most likely store his water, camera and radio inside his down suit near his skin to keep the batteries from freezing.
As they depart the tent they may or may not have moon light, but it will most likely be pitch dark. The climb goes from the tents upwards and to the right where, after several hundred meters, they will clip into the fixed line that will lead them upwards. Every year this line is fixed newly, but the old remains so it has become a spider's web of lines and it is important that the climbers find the new line, as that is the strongest. For 4 or 5 hours they will climb up the North Ridge towards the Northeast Ridge. The climbing is fairly steep and flucuates between ice and snow. They will have to take extra precaution to place their cramponed feet gingerly on the rocks, as the points can slip because Everest is made up of down sloping shale. As they climb upwards in the dark, their feet lit up by their headlamps, they will have little to focus on but forward movement and breathing. They will also be driven by the crazy adrenaline rush of climbing Everest, which is something indescribable.
The final portion of the climb is the Northeast Ridge, which, once they reach it, will lead them all the way to the summit. They really can't get lost as their is a 10k foot drop on one side and a 9k foot drop on the other. The climb along the ridge is less steep and more of a long traverse, but it is defended by three steps, or small cliffs. You can see some in the photos below. The climb to the first step is a very straight forward and, if all goes to plan, they should be there at about daylight. It will be hard for the climbers to get used to rock climbing at that altitude with big boots, cumbersome gloves and decreased visibility due to the oxygen masks. Their should be no problem in over coming this step, which is about 40 feet tall, though the slowed pace and the use of their hands may result getting cold and out of breath. It is at this point that they will also most likely have to change oxygen bottles, as the first may have run out. They will know within minutes when the flow is not strong and will scamper to get the next one attached. This is a scary manuever, as you leave yoruself for some short time just breathing the ambient air, which is very thin. (About 27% of the pressure, therefore the oxygen, of sea level)
Once they have reached the top of the first step there is a long and straight forward traverse to the second step, which is the tallest and hardest of the three. The step in total is 150 feet but is broken by a snowy ledge half way up. The first half can be climbed with crampons, hands and ice axes, but the second part has a ladder. The history of the ladder is very interesting. A Chinese team in the 60s liked this route but thought the second step to be too hard so they carried up a ladder and used it on the hardest part. The original ladder has since been replaced, but every person to climb the ridge now uses this artificial aide.
I have never been above the second step, but I hear that if you make it that far, barring anything out of your control (like an accident to a team mate, like in my case) you should reach the summit.
Once Max is on the summit, he should not linger. Take some photos, yell a cry of victory, regain your humility and descend. This is not a place for humans and they must remember that, they have to get down while they are still hydrated, warm and have oxygen.
I hope that Max summits prior to midday so that he has the stregnth and time to descend to 7800M, where he is relatively out of danger. If he needs another night at high camp it is not ideal but not the end of the world either.
This is, without a doubt, the biggest day of Max's life and let's all hope for his safety, success and quick return.
View out of High Camp Tent
View of summit from High Camp
Ropes going up the North Ridge
Northeast Ridge
First Step
Traverse to Second Step
Second Step
View of Northeast Ridge After Skies Cleared
Max is at High Camp
Hi All, great news... it looks like Max made it to high camp (see topo map). STAY TUNED:
AT 1-2PM EST HE WILL START TO MOVE TO THE SUMMIT AND WE CAN TRACK HIS PROGRESS. (if his tracker keeps working in that cold, if we see nothing, don't worry it could mean anything) HE SHOULD BE SUMMITTING AROUND MIDNIGHT OR SO EST MAY 22ND. JUST CLICK ON THE LIKN ON THE RIGHT TO FOLLOW.
I will make another post that describes the summit route with photos.
Walid
Friday, May 21, 2010
Photos and a Q&A
Hi All, Walid here. Here are some photos of the 7800M Camp, the view down to the North Col, the climb to High Camp, the view from High Camp and my frozen face. Enjoy
Also here are some questions from John O’Meara, Max’s dad with my answers below.
Some questions that people have been asking:
• Is there any way to prove someone gets to the summit other than their word?
• Can they go down the mountain quicker than going up from an acclimatization point of view?
• What’s the temperature at the 25,000 + level? The summit?
• Max mentioned in one of the blogs that the temp got to 115 degrees during the day at base camp – can that be??
• Many questions about how they go to the bathroom on the trek to the summit, or on the practice run to the North Col for example?
Here are some answers:
• The best way to prove is through a photo. However, these days photos can be doctored to prove that I have been to the moon. the gps helps for sure. On a busy mountain like Everest these days it is almost impossible to lie about summiting. If you go into the far Tien Shan or some place like that with no people there can often be controversy about a climb. In Max's case its nearly impossible.
• Going down does not require acclimatization because you are descending into an oxygen rich environment. They can descend as fast as their legs can carry them.
• The temps are approximately -40--50 at night and -20--30 during the day. It is colder with the wind. On my summit day it was minus 40 at night with three people in a two man tent. Its really, really cold, but they are prepared and have the right equipment.
• Yes, the UV at that altitude is so strong you can't believe it. I remember sitting out shirtless one day while the temp was in the 20s. Once the sun hits the tent it becomes like a sauna.
• Going to the bathroom #2 can be a disaster. Firstly, you have to expose some fragile bits, which, luckily, hide away with the cold. Then you have to get your harness off, take off a glove, get everything out of the way, go and clean up. The one piece of advice I forgot to give him, and I hope the others did, is to take Imodium prior to the summit attempt. You are eating so little that it does not make you sick, but does prevent your having to go. There is no practice for that sort of thing and doing it in the wind is horrible. It is also very tiring.
• Max should be on his way to high camp tonight and to the summit tomorrow. We will all be watching with bated breath.
Current Location 5.21 9AM EST
Here is where Max is on the route as of 9AM EST and 7PM Everest time. He is movin' on up.
7800 Meter Camp, Come on Sunday...
Hi All, Walid Here. Here is the lates position from Max's tracker. It looks like he has made it to the 7800M camp (That altitude is approximate, and the camp could be at 7700M as it looks like on the topo map). Below you will find the lates from Adventure Peaks. All seems well, lets keep throwing good karma their way.
21st May (approx 12.30pm GMT)
The team started out this morning in extremely strong winds which, as the forecast predicted, seem to have subsided throughout the day however they have remained stong enough to provide their fair share of challenges. After the strong winds last night, everyone headed out at around 8am, happy to be out of their tents and moving up the slope to 7800m. Some members of the team went on oxygen from 7000 as previously arranged and others opted to collect their cylinders from 7500m. Oxygen has clearly helped as those on it from 7000m moved well whist those collecting from 7500m are moving much more slowly. The sherpas were busy setting up camp at 7800m so several sherpas went back down to 7500m to bring down oxygen to those moving more slowly. I think that both Stu and Matt definitely have their hands full at the moment trying to get everyone into camp safely and with enough strength to continue on tomorrow.... I think that quite a few nerves were shaken as this feels like the first time that we've really witnessed what Everest is all about..
It's now 5pm and I think about 30% of the team is in camp. Matt is with the bulk of the group and they're just making their way up from 7500m and are expected to arrive in camp at around 7pm. A long night ahead... Fortunately the wind seems to have subsided quite a lot so at least people can sleep without the worry of tents collapsing over their heads..! I also think that we'll likely have some sherpas staying more closely with the team tomorrow while others go up to set up the camp at 8300m. Additionally, as of tomorrow everyone will be on oxygen so that should increase the energy levels..!
I'll send through more news as it becomes available and a fresh (positive!) update in the morning.
21st May - the team is now well on the way so keep a regular eye on the news, we hope to give regular updates including through the night coverage as the team heads to the summit area in the early hours of Sunday morning. The latest report:
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Hi Again, Walid here. I went on Google Earth and found some 3d renditions of the mountain and rotated them so that we can better see the route that the team is taking. The red dots are camps, with the lowest being the North Col, and then 7800M, 8200M and Summit (they obviously don't camp on the summit, though it has been done once!) the green line is their climbing route. The yellow line is the border between Tibet (China) and Nepal. On the right side of the photo you can see the Western Cwm, which is the big valley that the South side climbers use. You can also see from the photo that they are climbing up a defined ridge (North Ridge) until they reach an even more defined ridge (Northeast ridge) which will lead them to the summit. This side of the mountain is hard to get lost on, though not impossible. The bottom corner of the photo doesn't quite show ABC but if you keep going in that direction you will get there.
For those of you who do not have Google Eart I highly recommend down loading it. It is some amazing technology and can provide so much info.
Tracker Question
Hi All, Walid here. I just receieved a question from Sandy Omeara, Max's mom, regarding the tracker. She wrote;
Q: One thing that bothers me, it always seems according to the GPS that he looks like he is lost, goes one direction then back then over then back. I know I'm probably missing something simple but can you explain? thanks
A: When you look at the maps and the routes I have drawn it seems that all is in a straight line, which is not the case. The route he is climbing goes around crevasses, cliffs and other obslacles. He is also climbing very slowly at that altitude so the tracker will place lots of dots near each other, which could also be caused by some errors in its fix. Also, when he got to the North Col he probably rested for a little while then went out to catch the sunset, check out the route of the next day and walk around camp. He could have taken the tracker with him.
The climb up the North Ridge, which he will begin tomorrow starts by going up a small rise from the North Col camp and then traversin the Col before ascending again. He may well have climbed that small rise to check out the conditions of the ridge for the next day.
In short, do not worry about what you see on the tracker. There are a million benign reasons why it looks like he is lost. It is one of those situations where we don't have enough information from the device to make any conclusions other than he is approximately at some location at some time. Tomorrow is a huge day for the team, arguably one of the toughest, so lets throw some good karma their way as they move on up.
Q: One thing that bothers me, it always seems according to the GPS that he looks like he is lost, goes one direction then back then over then back. I know I'm probably missing something simple but can you explain? thanks
A: When you look at the maps and the routes I have drawn it seems that all is in a straight line, which is not the case. The route he is climbing goes around crevasses, cliffs and other obslacles. He is also climbing very slowly at that altitude so the tracker will place lots of dots near each other, which could also be caused by some errors in its fix. Also, when he got to the North Col he probably rested for a little while then went out to catch the sunset, check out the route of the next day and walk around camp. He could have taken the tracker with him.
The climb up the North Ridge, which he will begin tomorrow starts by going up a small rise from the North Col camp and then traversin the Col before ascending again. He may well have climbed that small rise to check out the conditions of the ridge for the next day.
In short, do not worry about what you see on the tracker. There are a million benign reasons why it looks like he is lost. It is one of those situations where we don't have enough information from the device to make any conclusions other than he is approximately at some location at some time. Tomorrow is a huge day for the team, arguably one of the toughest, so lets throw some good karma their way as they move on up.
3 More Days, Everyone keep posted and Follow the Tracker!!!!!
Hi All, Walid here, The weather window seems good and as you can see from the tracker photo here(this was updated at 8am EST), Max is to the North Col and making his way up. He should summit on Sunday and we will be able to follow his movements through the tracker. This is a really exciting time so be sure to check out the blog, the link to his tracker (Where am I???) on the right of the screen and the Adventure Peaks web site for updates. Let us all cross our fingers for the weather to cooperate and for Max's safety. Back in soon, Walid.
On to the Summit!!!! (From Max)
Hi all, here's the latest from ABC. The team is now at Advanced Base Camp getting ready to leave for the North Col tomorrow the . We got a good weather window so we shot up here to take advantage of it. We were planning for a May 24th summit day but a storm could mess with the weather that day so we are trying for the 23rd instead.
I'm happy to be headed up but I won't lie, I could use an extra day of rest here. If all goes as planned, tomorrow the 20th I'll be at 7100m at the North Col. The next day I'll make the walk up to 7800m. On the 22nd I'll make my way to 8300m where I'll rest for a few hours before waking up at around 10pm to start my summit day which should take between 14-16 hours. I will be using my GPS unit that will track my progress and you can access that through a link on my blog.
If things go the way I'm planning I should be summitting Sunday the 23rd anywhere between 6am and 10am and we are 10 hours ahead of New York so between 8pm and 12 midnight the GPS link may have me near the top if you want to check that out. I'm really looking forward to the challenge ahead and welcome the pain and suffering so I can see what I'm made of. Unfortunately I've come down with a pretty bad altitude cough thats been wreaking havoc on my throat but thats just another obstacle to overcome and I'm not about to let that affect me. Quite a few people have been getting sick and I'm not sure how many of the team will actually be attempting the summit. There have been a bunch of summits from the South side and some more from the North side the past couple days and the weather has been brilliant in the mornings on the top. I don't think I'll get much sleep tonight being so excited to finally give this a shot.
It's been 2 years in the making and a lot of hard work to get where I am now and this is the ultimate test. I could not have gotten here on my own and I have some people I'd like to thank for helping me along the way. First off, I have to thank my parents for all of their support in my endeavours. I don't think I'd be letting my kid do anything like this and I give them a lot of credit. Secondly I owe a huge thanks to Walid Abuhaidar who got me started in climbing and without him I would have never progressed as fast as I have. Only 2 years ago this was a crazy dream and now its happening. He has also done a tremendous job keeping my blog while I've been away.
I also want to thank those who sponsored me on this expedition. My Uncle Tom Rancich, his partner Elliot and their company VR Habilis that provides work for Veterans, my Uncle Mike and Aunt Jill O'Meara and their restaraunt Pazzo's Pizzeria out of Vail, Colorado, Gary and Diane Kvistad of Woodstock Percussion, Enfield Energy, Fire in the Gut fitness apparel- really awesome stuff, and Perfect Fitness- excellent products to keep in top shape. I can't thank you guys enough for all the help and joining my team. Also I really want to thank everyone who has been following my blog and my trip. It's a great feeling to know that you are being backed by so many people. My friends, my family, the commmunity, thank you for all the support.
Mohammed Ali was once asked how he knew he'd win a fight. He replied "If I'm willing to sacrifice more and suffer more pain than my opponent then I know I'll win" This is one heck of an opponent, with some factors outside of my control, but my real opponent is myself and I have sacrificed and suffered more for this than for anything else and I have never given up on anything I've set out to do and I will not give up now.
I look forward to catching up with everyone when I arrive back home.
Yours Sincerely,
Max O'Meara
I'm happy to be headed up but I won't lie, I could use an extra day of rest here. If all goes as planned, tomorrow the 20th I'll be at 7100m at the North Col. The next day I'll make the walk up to 7800m. On the 22nd I'll make my way to 8300m where I'll rest for a few hours before waking up at around 10pm to start my summit day which should take between 14-16 hours. I will be using my GPS unit that will track my progress and you can access that through a link on my blog.
If things go the way I'm planning I should be summitting Sunday the 23rd anywhere between 6am and 10am and we are 10 hours ahead of New York so between 8pm and 12 midnight the GPS link may have me near the top if you want to check that out. I'm really looking forward to the challenge ahead and welcome the pain and suffering so I can see what I'm made of. Unfortunately I've come down with a pretty bad altitude cough thats been wreaking havoc on my throat but thats just another obstacle to overcome and I'm not about to let that affect me. Quite a few people have been getting sick and I'm not sure how many of the team will actually be attempting the summit. There have been a bunch of summits from the South side and some more from the North side the past couple days and the weather has been brilliant in the mornings on the top. I don't think I'll get much sleep tonight being so excited to finally give this a shot.
It's been 2 years in the making and a lot of hard work to get where I am now and this is the ultimate test. I could not have gotten here on my own and I have some people I'd like to thank for helping me along the way. First off, I have to thank my parents for all of their support in my endeavours. I don't think I'd be letting my kid do anything like this and I give them a lot of credit. Secondly I owe a huge thanks to Walid Abuhaidar who got me started in climbing and without him I would have never progressed as fast as I have. Only 2 years ago this was a crazy dream and now its happening. He has also done a tremendous job keeping my blog while I've been away.
I also want to thank those who sponsored me on this expedition. My Uncle Tom Rancich, his partner Elliot and their company VR Habilis that provides work for Veterans, my Uncle Mike and Aunt Jill O'Meara and their restaraunt Pazzo's Pizzeria out of Vail, Colorado, Gary and Diane Kvistad of Woodstock Percussion, Enfield Energy, Fire in the Gut fitness apparel- really awesome stuff, and Perfect Fitness- excellent products to keep in top shape. I can't thank you guys enough for all the help and joining my team. Also I really want to thank everyone who has been following my blog and my trip. It's a great feeling to know that you are being backed by so many people. My friends, my family, the commmunity, thank you for all the support.
Mohammed Ali was once asked how he knew he'd win a fight. He replied "If I'm willing to sacrifice more and suffer more pain than my opponent then I know I'll win" This is one heck of an opponent, with some factors outside of my control, but my real opponent is myself and I have sacrificed and suffered more for this than for anything else and I have never given up on anything I've set out to do and I will not give up now.
I look forward to catching up with everyone when I arrive back home.
Yours Sincerely,
Max O'Meara
Saturday, May 15, 2010
Waiting on Weather
Hi all, Max here. The weather hasn't been cooperating with us up to this point and a week ago our target summit dates were the 15th-18th but here we are still in Base Camp waiting on a good forecast. Sitting around Base Camp has so far been the hardest part of this trip and I've been fighting off the boredom the best I can. To take up some time last week, I built a patio in front of my tent. Not something I'd normally do but it took up the better part of an afternoon and has definitely given my tent the best landscaping award. I also cleaned my tent for the first time and made an effort to organize my things and keep it clean for the rest of the trip, so far so good.
Also last week, another expedition team threw a party in their huge dome tent and provided all the food and drinks and it was cool to get to meet people from other teams that I would not have met otherwise. They have a ping pong table and we have an invite over to play whenever we want. I'm trying to be as patient as I can with waiting on the weather but it gets harder and harder as the days go on. A lot of teams have left Base Camp today to head up to Advanced Base Camp for a jumpstart when the good weather hits. I'm hoping that they summit before us because that will mean a lot less traffic up high on the mountain and reduce the risk of bottlenecks which, to me, are the biggest threat.
It's easy to become lethargic sitting around Base Camp and not want to do anything but I've forced myself to stay active wether it's hikes in the surrounding hills or sparring with Josh. After a brief sparring session my lungs are absolutely screaming for oxygen and my heart rate is through the roof all while sparing my legs from being overworked. My body has been atrophying since we arrived and I've lost quite a bit of muscle mass but what I have left is ready for a seriously demanding effort on the ascent. Our "luxury barrels" that used to be filled with snacks and other delicious treats are pretty much depleted and should be empty in a few days. I'm going out on a limb and guessing we will be done with this expedition in the next 10 days but I'm here until June if thats what it takes. I'm about 300 pages into a great 600 page book on the D-Day Invasion and my goal is to finish that in the next two days. Other than that it's hanging around hoping that the good weather is on it's way. I'd like to thank everyone for their continued support and I hope to be home soon!
Also last week, another expedition team threw a party in their huge dome tent and provided all the food and drinks and it was cool to get to meet people from other teams that I would not have met otherwise. They have a ping pong table and we have an invite over to play whenever we want. I'm trying to be as patient as I can with waiting on the weather but it gets harder and harder as the days go on. A lot of teams have left Base Camp today to head up to Advanced Base Camp for a jumpstart when the good weather hits. I'm hoping that they summit before us because that will mean a lot less traffic up high on the mountain and reduce the risk of bottlenecks which, to me, are the biggest threat.
It's easy to become lethargic sitting around Base Camp and not want to do anything but I've forced myself to stay active wether it's hikes in the surrounding hills or sparring with Josh. After a brief sparring session my lungs are absolutely screaming for oxygen and my heart rate is through the roof all while sparing my legs from being overworked. My body has been atrophying since we arrived and I've lost quite a bit of muscle mass but what I have left is ready for a seriously demanding effort on the ascent. Our "luxury barrels" that used to be filled with snacks and other delicious treats are pretty much depleted and should be empty in a few days. I'm going out on a limb and guessing we will be done with this expedition in the next 10 days but I'm here until June if thats what it takes. I'm about 300 pages into a great 600 page book on the D-Day Invasion and my goal is to finish that in the next two days. Other than that it's hanging around hoping that the good weather is on it's way. I'd like to thank everyone for their continued support and I hope to be home soon!
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Waiting for Weather
Hi All, Walid here. Below is the latest update from Adventure Peaks. It seems that things are moving along and that all they are waiting for is a break in the wind...
11th May The group continues to wait for a good weather forecast, although it appears there will be a small drop in summit winds around the 16-17th May it is likely we will wait for a more positive and defined window that appears to be forming for the period 23-26th. Dave Pritt
11th May The group continues to wait for a good weather forecast, although it appears there will be a small drop in summit winds around the 16-17th May it is likely we will wait for a more positive and defined window that appears to be forming for the period 23-26th. Dave Pritt
Monday, May 10, 2010
Latest from base camp
Hi All,
Here is the latest update from adventure peaks.
All the team + 6 sherpa finally came down to BC on the 8th May. We are now all resting and waiting for the weather window to come in, When that might be is the big question. Apparently the rope fixing team have moved up to ABC and are planning to attempt final summit fix on the 16th.
It's Heathers 34th Birthday tomorrow and it sounds like Stephen & Max have plans to celebrate the day with some sort of team orienteering activities around base camp...
Here is the latest update from adventure peaks.
All the team + 6 sherpa finally came down to BC on the 8th May. We are now all resting and waiting for the weather window to come in, When that might be is the big question. Apparently the rope fixing team have moved up to ABC and are planning to attempt final summit fix on the 16th.
It's Heathers 34th Birthday tomorrow and it sounds like Stephen & Max have plans to celebrate the day with some sort of team orienteering activities around base camp...
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Update from Basecamp
Hey Folks,
Well the acclimatization process is good and done and now I'm sitting in Base Camp waiting on a good weather window for a summit attempt. The last trip up the mountain I reached 7300m while attempting to hit 7500m, but a nasty storm blew in and made conditions too dangerous to continue upward so I retreated back to my tent at the North Col. I spent two nights sleeping at the North Col around 7100m and the team got snowed on for almost all of the 48 hours we were there. The wind was really incredible up there and I saw more than one tent that was completely destroyed and another that was blown right off the ridge and was sitting 500m below.
The team had the option of which day to try to reach 7500m and I chose the first day because I couldn't stand the thought of spending all day sitting in the tent. The weather outside was definitely not ideal but the team leader Stue set off so I went as well. The camp on the North Col is semi-sheltered from the wind by a huge Serac, which is essentially a bug chunk of ice that could either fall on us or give us shelter. A short walk brings you out onto a ridge that is fully exposed and that day there was a brutal crosswind whipping across it. Progress was very slow and once I hit 7300m I knew it was time to turn around because the weather was getting worse and worse and ice was flying around in the wind like little bullets. The wind gusts were at least 70mph and even knocked me down on my way back to camp. I also saw a yellow tent flying through the air like a kite before it disappeared over the edge of the ridge. Visibility was close to zero at some points and even though I didn't make it to the benchmark I was shooting for, I was happier to have gotten to experience Everest in some truly savage conditions than have had a nice clear, calm day and made it all the way to 7500m. If I do experience these conditions again on the summit attempt then I will be much better ready to handle them than if I had not been out there.
Life at the North Col is tough, my appetite almost disappeared which hasn't happened yet to me on this trip and probably hasn't happened yet in my life. Up there we are given boil in the bag meals and when you don't have an appetite those can be extremely hard to put down and if you're lucky enough to put them down they are hard to keep down. Ice and snow need to be melted for water and the stoves are very ineffecient and it can take 30 minutes to melt and then boil to sterilize just one liter of water. At an altitude like that you should be drinking at least 5 liters a day but that becomes nearly impossible and if you drink 2-3 liters at the North Col I'd say you're doing pretty well.
I shared a tent with a young guy named Stephen from Scotland and when you have two people breathing in a closed off tent in very cold conditions, the inside of the tent becomes covered in ice. I was sleeping in my down suit and a light sleeping bag but it became very hard to get any rest when they were both iced up. When the sun rises in the morning, and we were lucky enough to have it break through the storm clouds once or twice, all of that ice inside the tent starts to melt and EVERYTHING gets soaking wet. That was without a doubt the most frustrating part of the trip so far. During the day it was too windy outside to leave the tent so I was stuck lying in a tent while water droplets splashed my face- good fun.
The morning after the second night I was ready to get back to Advanced Base Camp by 7am. Unfortunately being ready so early meant that I was going to have to break trail back down the North Col because nobody had been up it that morning and I was the first going down. All the snow from the previous two days had buried the fixed lines and I had to pull them out from under at least a foot of snow and more in places where the snow had drifted in order to clip into them. Due to the steepness of the route and the crevasses scattered around this was without a doubt the most nerve racking thing I have done in my climbing career. The avalanche danger was huge and getting good footing was impossible so a little slip meant a lot of loose snow riding under me like a wave, deciding on it's own when it was going to stop. I successfully crossed the 3 ladders that topped the larger crevasses but crossing ladders isn't my favorite thing to do here and really gets the adrenaline pumping.
When I reached the bottom it looked like it would be smooth sailing into ABC, another hour or so of walking. I was crossing the glacier at the bottom of the North Col when I stepped right on a crevasse that had been covered up by snow so I couldn't tell it was there. The initial fear when something like that happens is like nothing I have ever felt before and it isn't until after you realize that you'll be able to get yourself out that you can breathe again. Luckily my leading leg went in and my body followed up until my waist, but my forward momentum helped me get my hands to the other side to stabilize my body and when I calmed down I hoisted myself out, dusted the snow off of my pants and kept walking. I contribute most of the fault for this happening on pure exhaustion due to the rough previous day of climbing, lack of food, and dehydration. It becomes so easy to lose your focus up on the mountain and sometimes it takes a good scare to get you back on track.
Back at ABC I rehydrated and ate as much as I could stomach. I was really wiped out so I took the day to rest and the next morning I left at 8am back to Base Camp and beat my previous time of 4 and a half hours with a 3 hours 45 minute trek. Getting back into Base Camp is always awesome and it's a much easier place for your body to relax and recover. Instead of waking up 4 times a night which happens at ABC and above, I usually go to sleep at 10pm and sleep right on through until 7am or so. When the sun warms up the tent I'll read a book until breakfast at 9:30 and then bum around camp all day. Gotta love rest days.
I was thinking about shaving today but I haven't shaved since I left on April 2nd and I didn't want to ruin the streak so I didn't. I'm looking pretty haggard right now but most people around me do as well so it's alright. I'm really craving some Holy Cow ice cream and I plan on going there just about every night over the summer. I also really want to just lie in the thick grass on my lawn and sleep for a few days straight in the warm sun. I should be headed up the mountain in the next week for my summit attempt so the GPS should be updating soon. Thanks for checking in!
Well the acclimatization process is good and done and now I'm sitting in Base Camp waiting on a good weather window for a summit attempt. The last trip up the mountain I reached 7300m while attempting to hit 7500m, but a nasty storm blew in and made conditions too dangerous to continue upward so I retreated back to my tent at the North Col. I spent two nights sleeping at the North Col around 7100m and the team got snowed on for almost all of the 48 hours we were there. The wind was really incredible up there and I saw more than one tent that was completely destroyed and another that was blown right off the ridge and was sitting 500m below.
The team had the option of which day to try to reach 7500m and I chose the first day because I couldn't stand the thought of spending all day sitting in the tent. The weather outside was definitely not ideal but the team leader Stue set off so I went as well. The camp on the North Col is semi-sheltered from the wind by a huge Serac, which is essentially a bug chunk of ice that could either fall on us or give us shelter. A short walk brings you out onto a ridge that is fully exposed and that day there was a brutal crosswind whipping across it. Progress was very slow and once I hit 7300m I knew it was time to turn around because the weather was getting worse and worse and ice was flying around in the wind like little bullets. The wind gusts were at least 70mph and even knocked me down on my way back to camp. I also saw a yellow tent flying through the air like a kite before it disappeared over the edge of the ridge. Visibility was close to zero at some points and even though I didn't make it to the benchmark I was shooting for, I was happier to have gotten to experience Everest in some truly savage conditions than have had a nice clear, calm day and made it all the way to 7500m. If I do experience these conditions again on the summit attempt then I will be much better ready to handle them than if I had not been out there.
Life at the North Col is tough, my appetite almost disappeared which hasn't happened yet to me on this trip and probably hasn't happened yet in my life. Up there we are given boil in the bag meals and when you don't have an appetite those can be extremely hard to put down and if you're lucky enough to put them down they are hard to keep down. Ice and snow need to be melted for water and the stoves are very ineffecient and it can take 30 minutes to melt and then boil to sterilize just one liter of water. At an altitude like that you should be drinking at least 5 liters a day but that becomes nearly impossible and if you drink 2-3 liters at the North Col I'd say you're doing pretty well.
I shared a tent with a young guy named Stephen from Scotland and when you have two people breathing in a closed off tent in very cold conditions, the inside of the tent becomes covered in ice. I was sleeping in my down suit and a light sleeping bag but it became very hard to get any rest when they were both iced up. When the sun rises in the morning, and we were lucky enough to have it break through the storm clouds once or twice, all of that ice inside the tent starts to melt and EVERYTHING gets soaking wet. That was without a doubt the most frustrating part of the trip so far. During the day it was too windy outside to leave the tent so I was stuck lying in a tent while water droplets splashed my face- good fun.
The morning after the second night I was ready to get back to Advanced Base Camp by 7am. Unfortunately being ready so early meant that I was going to have to break trail back down the North Col because nobody had been up it that morning and I was the first going down. All the snow from the previous two days had buried the fixed lines and I had to pull them out from under at least a foot of snow and more in places where the snow had drifted in order to clip into them. Due to the steepness of the route and the crevasses scattered around this was without a doubt the most nerve racking thing I have done in my climbing career. The avalanche danger was huge and getting good footing was impossible so a little slip meant a lot of loose snow riding under me like a wave, deciding on it's own when it was going to stop. I successfully crossed the 3 ladders that topped the larger crevasses but crossing ladders isn't my favorite thing to do here and really gets the adrenaline pumping.
When I reached the bottom it looked like it would be smooth sailing into ABC, another hour or so of walking. I was crossing the glacier at the bottom of the North Col when I stepped right on a crevasse that had been covered up by snow so I couldn't tell it was there. The initial fear when something like that happens is like nothing I have ever felt before and it isn't until after you realize that you'll be able to get yourself out that you can breathe again. Luckily my leading leg went in and my body followed up until my waist, but my forward momentum helped me get my hands to the other side to stabilize my body and when I calmed down I hoisted myself out, dusted the snow off of my pants and kept walking. I contribute most of the fault for this happening on pure exhaustion due to the rough previous day of climbing, lack of food, and dehydration. It becomes so easy to lose your focus up on the mountain and sometimes it takes a good scare to get you back on track.
Back at ABC I rehydrated and ate as much as I could stomach. I was really wiped out so I took the day to rest and the next morning I left at 8am back to Base Camp and beat my previous time of 4 and a half hours with a 3 hours 45 minute trek. Getting back into Base Camp is always awesome and it's a much easier place for your body to relax and recover. Instead of waking up 4 times a night which happens at ABC and above, I usually go to sleep at 10pm and sleep right on through until 7am or so. When the sun warms up the tent I'll read a book until breakfast at 9:30 and then bum around camp all day. Gotta love rest days.
I was thinking about shaving today but I haven't shaved since I left on April 2nd and I didn't want to ruin the streak so I didn't. I'm looking pretty haggard right now but most people around me do as well so it's alright. I'm really craving some Holy Cow ice cream and I plan on going there just about every night over the summer. I also really want to just lie in the thick grass on my lawn and sleep for a few days straight in the warm sun. I should be headed up the mountain in the next week for my summit attempt so the GPS should be updating soon. Thanks for checking in!
Friday, May 7, 2010
On to the Summit
Hi All its Walid here. Firstly, check out the Adventure Peaks web site (link on right) for some updates and photos (one of Max) Secondly, I received this question from the Uncle of Steven Greene, a Mr. Allister Taggart:
Walid. Could you give us some insight into the physical and psychological pressures that Max will be facing in his final summit bid based on your experiences on Everest in 2003. Allister
This is a wonderful question, in my opinion, because it breaks down the challenge into the physical and the psychological. I have always found that the value in climbing is often found more in the mental challenge than the physical. There are many factors that can affect the mind during a long expedition, including prolonged time in tents, in the cold, with no running water, no clean clothes, constantly thin air, and tired muscles. After a while these things wear people down and I remember on my own trip that by the end many of us were sullen, quiet and irritable. This is especially true if the team has to wait a long time at BC to leave for their summit bid. I believe we waited for ten days and some in our group were more bothered by the waiting than anything else.
Once the weather looks ok and the summit bid starts it should proceed as follows.
Day 1 - BC to ABC
Day 2 - ABC to North Col
Day 3 - North Col to 7800M Camp
Day 4 - 7800M Camp to High Camp at 8200M
Day 5 - Summit and return to 7800m
Day 6 - Back to ABC
Day 1 is easy, as the climbers are now fit and acclimated, though it should be mentioned that it would be wise for them to climb slowly at the lower elevation even if they feel very strong to preserve their strength. The night at ABC should be comfortable and they should try and force as much food into their bodies as possible. They should also work very hard and drinking heavily (not booze!) as the body is hard to keep hydrated at that elevation. Once they start to the North Col the climb really begins. I believe that on my summit bid the climb from ABC to the Col took me about 7 hours and I felt good. This step also marks the time on the mountain when the climbers are in a constant state of deterioration, they will not be able to stay hydrated or eat enough food, simple as that. They have only a limited time to summit and return, so they have to be very conservative with their actions, their food, their equipment and their water. Theoretically they should sleep fairly well at the Col, though I do not remember sleeping well at or above 7000M. The lack of sleep is also very detrimental to the body and especially the mind as it can affect the ability of the climbers to make good decisions.
Once they leave for the camp at 7800M it becomes really serious. For me this was the hardest day and if it were not for the help of my team mate Peter Madew I would not have made it to this camp. The climb is very straight forward, but the challenges are immense. At sea level this climb would have taken me just over an hour, but at that altitude it took me over 11. The challenges of altitude become very apparent because they are now climbing without oxygen to roughly 26000 feet. I was physically exhausted from the previous days and every step for all those hours felt like agony. The wind was bitter, I was forced to go #2 along the way, which took up time and lots of energy, and once above 7500M I was sure I was suffocating. I also suffered from some major mental anguish from the sheer immensity of the mountain; I looked up and thought 'no way'. I began to quit, both physically and mentally. Then my Aussie friend found me a mere 200m from camp sitting on a rock about to cry. He told me 'get up or I am going to kick you'. So the last 200 meters we climbed together, about five minutes moving and five minutes sitting. I resigned myself that this camp was it. It was a really, really hard day.
Once I got to camp and sat for an hour and had some tea and some food something happened that was very strange, I came back to life. Now, in retrospect, I am sure that I did not feed myself enough that day and I was running out of fuel. It is very important for the climbers to stop regularly to eat and drink. This is very hard because once you actually get yourself moving you don't want to stop and the altitude wrecks your appetite, but luckily now there are many foods, like GU, which are very easy to eat.
From 7800M Camp to High Camp should be a wonderful day for the guys. They will have started using oxygen and they are only gaining 400 meters all day, so they should enjoy the view, go slow, and take it easy. That sounds simple enough, but this will also be a very taxing day on some very taxed bodies. For me this day was glorious because I really felt that I might actually make it, I was alive again and my spirits came back, which makes all the difference.
The night at High Camp should be focused on just a few things. Eating, Drinking and Making water. If they sleep, fine, but I don't remember sleeping much. They need to rest, relax and make sure that they are ready to leave ASAP in the morning. The utter lack of oxygen is startling and the immensity of the proposition of actually climbing Everest tomorrow is very strange. They will also be pretty dazed and I remember that the three of us on my summit team spoke little and just stared at each other most of the time. If they get here they should be able to get to the summit. Also, at this point the supplemental oxygen makes a world of difference. I have a friend who summitted in 1999 without oxygen becoming the 98th person in the world to do so, and I have to say he was super human. His resting heart rate was 32 and he used to win 100 mile ultra marathons. Amazing. Without the oxygen I would not have been able to continue, and it I had managed to I probably would not have come home.
Summit day. They will force themselves out of the tent in the pitch dark, with two liters of water, three new oxygen bottles, and some food. They will have approximately 18-24 hours of oxygen left at a good flow rate of 2 liters per minute and the adventure begins. I recommended to Max to leave camp very early to avoid the people. They will climb straight up the North Ridge to it apex where it meets the North East Ridge. The climbing is steep, tiring and route finding can be tough if the weather is bad. Sadly, there is a dead Spaniard at about the top of the North Ridge and people always joke 'get to the dead guy and make a right'. That is in bad taste, but I guess we all chose to be up there. Max should, theoretically, not remember too much of this part of the climb. It is dark, cold and his goal is simple; clip in and climb up.
Once they get to the Northeast Ridge the climb is very straight forward, go along the ridge to the summit. However, there are three tough spot along the way called the three steps. The first step is a 15 meter near vertical cliff that they must negotiate. I would recommend to them that they try to arrive at the first step around sunrise or 7 am. The climbing is not too hard but with the obscured view due the oxygen mask and the big, cumbersome clothing it takes a little time to get used to things. Once over the first step they traverse for some way until the second step, which is the hardest of the three. This is where my expertise ends, as I was forced to turn around half way up the second step when my friend broke his leg.
From what I hear the climbing after the second step should be fairly straight forward to the summit. The guys should be on or around the summit by 12 or 1 to ensure that they have time to return in daylight and with Oxygen left. The official turn around time is usually 2pm.
It is tough to generalize about how people will feel above 8000M. Suffice to say that they should not really be there and they should stay there for as little time as possible. I was up there for 48 hours which was terrifically tiring even though I had oxygen the whole time. Summit day is the one day on Everest when you really give it 150%. You don't want to kill yourself and you want to save energy to descend, but most people who get to high camp dig deep and really find out what you are made of. I have great faith in Max's toughness, both physical and mental, so I don't think that will be a problem. He will have to use his judgment if he feels sick to turn around and get home safely. I also have faith that he much prefers living to summiting. Clearly there are many dangers for the climbers, altitude, falls, other people, etc, but much of this can be mitigated through wise choices and good planning, and I am confident that the team will have both.
Climbing any high peak is a major accomplishment and challenge, Everest is especially hard because it's summit is literally in the stratosphere. I have found in my travels and adventures that people who approach things like this with a clear mind and good intentions generally do well. Those who are driven by vanity or insecurity have a much harder time. Clearly, being able to say 'I have climbed Everest' will impress girls at a bar, but that is a bad reason to be on that mountain. There is no right reason to climb Everest, but there are bad ones. I imagine that for Max (though I don't want to put words into his mouth) one of the reasons he is there is to benefit as a person from the sheer challenge and to enjoy the fruits of such an accomplishment. I don’t think he is there to impress people or to bathe in the vain light of his success. I believe that on summit day he will be quite driven and will not have to search too much for motivation, though he will have to use his wits to keep is fingers attached and come home to all of us who are rooting for him. All the best, Walid
Sunday, May 2, 2010
Explorer's Web (very cool site)
Hi All, Walid here. Here is a photo I took of the sunset from the North Col in 2003, just to give you an idea of some of the breathtaking scenery that Max is enjoying during his climb. I was browsing the web today to do a little research on weather patterns in the Everest region and came accross this web site: http://www.explorersweb.com/. There is a link to it on the right side of the page as well. It is really worth a look to see what adventures people are doing all around the globe and in all different elements. Stay tuned in as I am going to put together some information regarding the weather so that when we follow Max's summit bid we can better understand the how the weather issues inform the climber's decisions. Nice Sunday to all, Walid
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Rongbuk Monastary
During the extended stay at basecamp it is common to head down to the Rongbuk Monastary for a day or even to spend a night. It is an especially interesting cultural part of Tibet and of the history of Mt. Everest. Below is some info from Wikipedia...
The Rongbuk Monastery itself was founded in 1902 by a Nyingmapa Lama in an area of meditation huts that had been in use by monks and hermits for over 400 years. Hermitage meditation caves dot the cliff walls all around the monastery complex and up and down the valley. Many walls and stones, carved with sacred syllables and prayers, line the paths.
The founding Rongbuk Lama, also known as the Zatul Rinpoche, was much respected by the Tibetans. Even though the Rongbuk Lama viewed the early climbers as "heretics," he gave them his protection and supplied them with meat and tea while also praying for their conversion. It was the Rongbuk Lama who gave Namgyal Wangdi the name Ngawang Tenzin Norbu, or Tenzing Norgay, as a young child.[citation needed]
In previous times, the Monastery became very active with the teachings at certain times of the year. It was, and is, the destination of special Buddhist pilgrimages where annual ceremonies are held for spectators coming from as far as Nepal and Mongolia. These ceremonies were shared with the satellite monasteries across the Himalaya also founded by the Rongbuk Lama. The ceremonies continue to this day, notably at the Sherpa Monastery at Tengboche.
The Rongphuk monastery was completely destroyed by 1974, and were left to ruin several years, as shown by photo journalist Galen Rowell in 1981.
The Monastery's vast treasury of books and costumes, which had been taken for safekeeping to Tengboche, were lost in a 1989 fire.
Since 1983 renovation works have been carried out and some of the new murals are reportedly excellent. There is a basic guesthouse and small but cosy restaurant
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