(Photo above is of Walid and Dr. Mike. Dr. Mike is the old guy and Walid is the good looking one...)Hi All. I just got a question from Dr. Mike and I thought I would post it and the answer...
Q.I am following the blog--but am wondering--what is 'expected day of final ascent "--They have climbed up north col, then back down--how close are they and how much acclimatization is left--my impression is they are really close--and wait for weather and bodies to be ready? How is decision made? individuals or team leader?--how long can they stay at this camp and wait before final climb---and what about the guys who went down to bc--do they try again? Lots of questions--Mike
A:The best time to summit is during the final two weeks of May. Why… First, the jet stream, which blows right over the summit needs to head north so that its not too windy. This is forecast usually in Europe and sent via email to the team. Second, they need to set up the route. This is being mostly done by the Sherpas who are already used to the altitude. They have an remarkable team of 19, which big, so they need 50 tens, 60 oxygen bottles…. Thirdly, they still need to make one more run up above the North Col for acclamitization purposes, maybe to 7500 meters. Once they do that they need to come back down again and rest for several days to recover. Once all that is done it is generally around May 10 or so and then they can sit back and wait for a good 4-5 day window. They can stay at base camp for as long as they want and at ABC for a couple of days only before a summit push. It is best if you can climb straight through and spend just one night at each camp going up.
Good question about who makes the choices. The way it used to be with Adventure Peaks when I went was that the individual makes his own choice and will only be stopped by team mates or the leader if he is really committing suicide. What I recommended to Max, which I am sure he will follow through with, is to choose a couple of good guys, make a little clique and they can decided together. If I were him I would leave all final decisions to myself. Generally the way it works is that people group up and when the weather looks good there is a mass exodus out of base camp. Max should also keep in mind that once he gets to high camp he should leave for the summit an hour earlier than everyone else so that he does not get stuck behind anyone. And he should sleep with his stove so it does not freeze. Both of these things lead to my not summiting.
Best to all, Walid
Q.I am following the blog--but am wondering--what is 'expected day of final ascent "--They have climbed up north col, then back down--how close are they and how much acclimatization is left--my impression is they are really close--and wait for weather and bodies to be ready? How is decision made? individuals or team leader?--how long can they stay at this camp and wait before final climb---and what about the guys who went down to bc--do they try again? Lots of questions--Mike
A:The best time to summit is during the final two weeks of May. Why… First, the jet stream, which blows right over the summit needs to head north so that its not too windy. This is forecast usually in Europe and sent via email to the team. Second, they need to set up the route. This is being mostly done by the Sherpas who are already used to the altitude. They have an remarkable team of 19, which big, so they need 50 tens, 60 oxygen bottles…. Thirdly, they still need to make one more run up above the North Col for acclamitization purposes, maybe to 7500 meters. Once they do that they need to come back down again and rest for several days to recover. Once all that is done it is generally around May 10 or so and then they can sit back and wait for a good 4-5 day window. They can stay at base camp for as long as they want and at ABC for a couple of days only before a summit push. It is best if you can climb straight through and spend just one night at each camp going up.
Good question about who makes the choices. The way it used to be with Adventure Peaks when I went was that the individual makes his own choice and will only be stopped by team mates or the leader if he is really committing suicide. What I recommended to Max, which I am sure he will follow through with, is to choose a couple of good guys, make a little clique and they can decided together. If I were him I would leave all final decisions to myself. Generally the way it works is that people group up and when the weather looks good there is a mass exodus out of base camp. Max should also keep in mind that once he gets to high camp he should leave for the summit an hour earlier than everyone else so that he does not get stuck behind anyone. And he should sleep with his stove so it does not freeze. Both of these things lead to my not summiting.
Best to all, Walid
Go Max!
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